GREECE - FASHION AND CLOTHING

GREECE : COSTUMES AND FASHION

The typical clothing that ancient men and women wore consisted of two pieces of clothing draped around the body - a cloak ( himation or chlamys) and an undergarment (chiton or peplos), Clothes were customarily made at home of different lengths and breadths and these pieces were often interchangeable too! They were made out of wool or rectangular linen fabric with extra accessories like clasps, pins or a belt. Unfortunately, none of the clothes have survived from this period although  they served many purposes, for example, bedding. Mostly, the common clothing included incorporating decorative borders on plain white cloth. Evidence can be traced for elaborate designs and bright colours- but they were definitely less common. 

Fig: An overall look of both men and women.

Fig: They usually wore very loose fitted clothes. 

Ancient Greece consisted primarily of Chiton, Peplos, Himation and Chlamys. They can be explained as follows:

Fig: Parts of the clothing.

CHITON

A simple tunic garment worn by both genders and all ages in lighter linen is called chiton. Secured along the shoulders, It included wide rectangular tubes. They fell to the ankles of the person wearing it , typically. However, shorter lengths were worn by people interested in harsh activities (athletics, wars etc). A cloak or a himation could be worn over a chiton. 

PEPLOS

A square piece of cloth thats the predecessor (worn over) the chiton is called the peplos. It is folded and pinned at both shoulders. Sometimes it was worn alone i.e as an alternative for a chiton.

HIMATION

A basic garment worn over a chiton is called himation. It is made up of a very heavy rectangular material which passes under the left arm and settles at the right shoulder. A cloak could also be placed in a similar way. In cold weather, more volumes of himation could be worn. Also, it is said that this himation was pulled up over the head if incase the wearer faced emotion or shame.

CHLAMYS

Men wore seamless rectangular woollen material for hunting and military purposes called chlamys. This was again worn as a clock secured at the right shoulder which fancy buttons or broaches. This clothing is famous particularly from the 5th to the 3rd century BC as it came to be known as a Greek military attire. 

Fig: Ancient Greek Clothing

FABRIC

Ancient Greek clothing was made up of wool mostly, silk and linen. This production of fabric was rather a long and tedious process and the ready made clothing was highly expensive. 

FOOTWEAR

They roamed around barefoot at home. Otherwise, they wore sandals, slippers, soft shoes and boots.

JEWELLERY

Small ornaments in gold were sewn into the clothing and would sparkle as one moved. Elaborate hairstyles and makeup were prominent. 

EGYPT - CLOTHING AND FASHION

EGYPTIAN CLOTHING AND FASHION

“Egyptian fashion was created to keep cool while in the hot desert.” 

Egyptian clothing is famous for its variety of colours. The fashion of these ancient Egyptians focused not only on beauty (adorned with precious jewels and gems) but also on comfort. The most common fabric was linen in those times as it helped people to get comfortable in the scorching heat. This linen was made from the flax plant by the method in which fibers were spun from the stem of the plant. Important techniques that were used in Egyptian societies included spinning, weaving and sewing. For the rich, taboos like animal fibers were used on occasions in the form of overcoats. However, they were forbidden in sanctuaries and temples. 

Fig: Ancient Egyptian Clothing

MEN

Men’s clothing was as simple as a wrap around skirt belted at the waist or pleated or gathered up in the front. They were known as the Shendyt. From the time period of 1420 BC to 1600 BC skirts became long from short and then transformed into a light tunic i,e a blouse with sleeves and a pleated petticoat. 

PHARAOHS

This is a common term used for the kings of Ancient Egypt. Well documented Royal clothing was made of leopard skin over the shoulder and they often added a lions tail that would usually hang from the belt. 

WOMEN

Fig: Women wore straight cut dress. They decorated their clothes.

Their clothing was more conservation than men’s. They wore simple sheath dresses known as the kalasiris - i.e. a dress held up by one or two straps and worn down till the ankle. Social class of the wearer was determined by the length of the dress. Other accessories included beading, feathers, shawls, robes or capes along with decorative shoes.

CHILDREN

No clothing was worn until the child was 6 years old. As soon as they turned six, they were allowed to wear clothes for the very reason of protecting themselves from the dry heat. However, apart from clothing, they wore anklets, bracelets, hair accessories on their popular hairstyle of side locks on the right side of their heads. When they grew up, they’d follow the style of their ancestors. 

OTHER ACCESSORIES

Heavy and voluminous jewellery was popular, no matter what the social class. One creation specific to this time is the ‘gorgerine’ i.e. an assembly of metal discs worn on the chest. 

Hair wigs were worn by both- the men and women who were wealthy. They were quite inexpensive. 

Nails and hands were painted with henna. The perfumes were most sought after and the costliest.           

Fig: Basic garments with minor variations accounted for fashion - Fundamentally, social status and wealth did not change.

Footwear too, was the same for both the genders. They consisted of sandals made of leather work. Since they usually roamed barefoot, these sandals were an addition on special occasions or when they knew their feet might get hurt.  

ROME - CLOTHING AND FASHION

ROME CLOTHING AND FASHION 

The official dress code in ancient Rome for the day was complex and had to compulsorily reflect one's position accurately in the social order, one's gender, and also, one’s language. "The importance of official dress, even more than other distinctions, signalled the social status and rank of freeborn Romans and the public roles of magistrates and priests.” Quoted. 

Fig: Tunics were dyed in different colours because Romans loved vibrancy.

TYPES OF CLOTHING

Individual clothes were woven on vertical looms which contrasts with the medieval period where clothes were produced on  horizontal looms that later tailors made. The weaver used to sit at the horizontal loom and produce rectangular lengths of cloth which never weren’t  wider than the weaver's two arms.

Fig: Drawing of a Stola.

Besides tunics, women wore “STOLA” which are simple garments. They usually followed the fashions of their Greek contemporaries which comprised of two rectangular pieces of cloth joined at the side by  buttons in a manner which allowed the garment to drape freely over the front .Over it, women often wore the palla - i.e. shawl made of a piece of material that could be worn as a coat.

Roman girls wore nothing more than a tunic which used to hang below the knees or lower and was belted at the waist. It was very simply decorated, mostly in the colour white.

Clothing for men and women were very similar and they usually went barefoot. However, the garments varied in material 

UNDERGARMENTS

The basic garment which both the sexes wore under their one or more additional layers, was called the tunica or tunic. This was a very simple rectangle which was sewn into a tubular shape and pinned around the shoulders, just like a Greek chiton. Women also wore a breast cloth. Garments to cover the loins,were worn, especially by soldiers.

FABRICS USED

Wool, was the most commonly used fibre and was most likely the first material to be spun.

Silk and cotton were imported from China and India respectively. A luxury afforded only to the rich ; Silk was rare and expensive.

The tanned leather was used to fashion heavy coats to keep Roman soldiers warm during their travel.

Leather  was used sometimes for protection against the poor weather,however, its primary use was in footwear and also,belts.

Animal skins were usually worn over the helmet .The Romans hardly used goat skin for their leather and preferred pig or sheepskin. 

Fig: Besides tunics, women wore a simple garment known as a stola and usually followed  the fashions of  their Greek contemporaries. 

ACCESSORIES

Romans wore long hair and full beards. The only kind of jewellery they wore were rings which had a precious stone. 

THE DARK AGES

FASHION THROUGH THE MEDIEVAL AGE 

The ‘dark ages’ as it is called, refers to that time in history where the Age of discovery and the beginning of the Greek Empire was marked by the fall of the Roman Empire. Europe, by some scholars, have been perceived as ‘plunged into darkness’ when the Roman Empire fell. The Middle ages hence, is referred to as “Dark” because of lack of cultural and scientific advancement. 

Fig: Farming, religious discrimination and technology advances led people out of the Dark Ages.

Fig: The European Dark ages are seen as a period of insecurity and fear.

One of the most important parts during the rule in medieval times was its clothing. The styles that people wore kept changing and the main reason behind it was that new fabrics were introduced time and again. Therefore, the King was now able to make a unique empire for himself that stood out due to its various different colour combinations. Citizens too could be differentiated through their style of dressing which made them happier as they could experiment well in different weather conditions. 

Fig: Materials used were woollen cloth,fur , linen
and silver or gold cloth to name a few.

Information about one’s social status was provided by the type of material and the colour of the clothes they wore. The peasants for example, wore cheap and undyed wool in different shades of grey and brown. Wealthy merchants on the other hand dressed elaborately. Towards the end of this period, wealthy class men wore a hose and a jacket, with pleats or skirts or even a tunic. Flowing gowns and headgears were worn by women. Peasant men wore tunics or stockings and women wore sleeveless tunics over gowns and wimples to cover hair. In winters, cloaks made of sheep skin and woollen hats were worn along with leather boots. 

Fig: Queen's court dresses.

Talking about jewellery, it was mostly functional. Richly adorned and embroidery work on the clothing left very little scope for jewellery. The only jewels that naturally formed a part of one’s dress was the belt worn by married women and men and the brooch that fastened the tunics at the neck. These few pieces however monumental and noble. Ring brooches were the most popular items in the 12th ce. Diamonds became popular in the 14th ce. 

Hair styles varied among the women and covering the head was also popularised. They have survived due to the paintings and portraits of royals on historic coins. They were usually long, trend of short hair or medium length was hardly seen - and important components included plaits, updo’s and braids. Coiled buns were also introduced on each side of the head. Important characteristics included flowers, silk bands and leaves. 

RENAISSANCE PERIOD

RENAISSANCE : AT THE EARLIEST

The period in Europe from the 14th to 17th c.e is considered to be a bridge between the middle ages and the modern history. It marks the very beginning of what came to be known as the Early Modern Age. 

History of Europe can be briefly divided into three ages : 

• Classical Age ; ancient Europe
• Middle Ages ; medieval period
• Modern Age

“Renaissance” literally means ‘Rebirth’ in French and appeared first in English in the 1830s. 

The origin of this period dates back in the late 13th c.e Florence whereas some propose the starting point to be 1401. During this period, money and art went hand in hand. Artists were totally dependant on patrons and vice versa. It represented a break away from a conformist society i.e. the one in which people strictly follow practices and rules. Having said that, new innovative ideas began to spread and started gaining importance. Henceforth, dominance by the catholic church started to fade. 

Fig: This painting shows an imaginary scene from Ancient Greece with many famous Greek artists, mathematicians and writers.

Renaissance was a cultural movement whose influence was felt in art, music, science, literature and other aspects related to intellectual inquiry. Talking about the changes brought in by the Renaissance - new trends and styles emerged which were inspired by Europe’s ancient history. 

Talking about art ; it was life-like and had perspective. Painters began to depict human figures with complete accuracy and one great example to prove this new knowledge can be attributed to the pioneer figure- Leonardo da Vinci. 

Fig: The Mona Lisa- world's most famous painting was painted during this time.

Fig: Leonardo da Vinci's Vitruvian man

Great literacy change was experienced too. Shifting and drifting away from religious subjects, writers and poets now looked back to the Ancient texts and poems of Greece and Rome. Information was suddenly made more accessible with the invention of printing press in the 1440s to the general public- which had a great impact in the field of education. 

Philosophy and its related trends also changed. Humanism- the new of thinking in which people thought about human beings and the universe was also altered. It did not promote humans as naturally sinful and it focused many on finding reasons before assumptions. 

Major changes were seen in the fields of Science and engineering too. Astronomy, anatomy and physics were some main areas where new and exciting discoveries were made. They paved way for some of the the world’s most significant inventions such as spectacles,clocks, and telescopes. Galilio Galilei was one such inventor.

Fig: Galileo Galilei and his invention : The telescope 

The society- Renaissance was a hierarchal age i.e. the child’s social position was determined by his parents place in the society. They maybe  nobles, wealthy merchants, shopkeepers, craftsperson, civil servants etc. They provided social services for the less fortunate as well - be it civic charitable institutions, social mobility etc. 

ELIZABETHAN FASHION

ELIZABETHAN FASHION

A ‘highly fashion-conscious’ era as it is called ; of all the aspects, this Elizabethan culture was distinctively famous for its clothing - elaborate, stylish and striking. Both genders were seen wearing all the latest and the most fashionable outfits which weren't just limited to the upper class as the other ordinary people were too, highly influenced by them. Through paintings that hung in the great country houses, both men, along with women are portrayed in rich velvets, heavy brocades and exaggerated jewellery. 

Fig: Men and women's clothing

The Elizabethan women have been portrayed as well-to-do and their standard look included a white makeup base, colourful dyed cheeks, fake beauty spots, thin eyebrows, thick lipsticked lips and powdered hair which would be pinned and perfumed. Their clothing looked somewhat like men with broad shoulders, thin waists and broad hips. Their dresses were made up of two or three garments with the bodice coming down to the waist ; sleeves were separate but fastened to it with a lace. The skirt, known as the kirtle was of different material with a wire inside to give it a balloon shape. Hair was worn in many different styles - however they were always bushed from the forehead to the back. 

Fig:The bodice came down to the waist

It is said that putting on an Elizabethan outfit was quite a task - with so many layers of clothing it was thought that the woman would be warm and most likely, uncomfortable. 

Men were seen as stylish wearing a shirt, fitted jacket , breeches and boots. For any social occasion for that matter,  a ruff at the neck, velvet cloak and  a hat would always work. Wealthy men were seen wearing fabrics like silk, brocade, satin and velvet that were colourful with mostly golden or silver lace. The poor on  the other hand wore leather or canvas. The doublet was the most expensive as well as the most striking part of a mans clothing ; the sleeves were tight at the wrist ; hose covered the body from the waist down. Hats worn over the head were often of different shapes and sizes and were worn indoors. Hair unlike the women were combed forward to form short fringes . In the mid 16th century, trimmed beard and moustache came into style. 

Fig: Parts of men's clothing

This period of Queen Elizabeth is supposedly the era known for its culture, entertainment, fashion and food. She was herself, an epitome of fashion! She wore the richest clothing per say and carried off all varieties with grace and elegance. She was herself a stylish lady and had an excellent taste in clothing. 

BAROQUE AND ROCOCO FASHION

BAROQUE AND ROCOCO PERIOD OF FASHION

The Baroque and the Rococo movement was initiated in the 18th century. This particular movement affected not just fashion but various other aspects as well including art, lifestyle, music and architecture. Rococo and Baroque were formed in Paris, France as a result of the reaction from various artisans over the strict rules and regulations. 

Fig: Woman dressed in a classic Rococo print

Rococo can be called the late Baroque style. But what exactly was Baroque? It was simply a form of art which was included in every possible creative field like clothes, music, and even theatre. When we talk of Baroque in the context of architecture or material styles, it was portrayed as rich. These designs were put up on walls covered with art. Rococo on the other hand was more about natural elements - sticking to lighter colour schemes. 

Beginning with the Baroque period- it was King Louis the 14th who brought changes in fashion. He introduced the idea of having dressmakers and designers as professionals. As a shift from the renaissance period, the dresses became much lighter in terms of weight - however, the decorative elements continued to grow. The gowns further began to have cuts of different kinds and various embellishments and frills. They became less flouncy and the necklines further widened. Although the French were considered to be the most fashion forward ones, it is hard to believe that they were the least orthodox. The dresses used a lot of frills, pearls and other adornments to complete the look. French came to be known for their perfumes as the Parisians got not bathing and carried these perfumes around to kill the strong and smelly body odour that they had been carrying for months. Unfortunately, this trend is followed even today! The queen of that time- Marie Antoinette was considered to be an epitome of style and fashion. She introduced the wearing of the big hair. Hairstyling was an art in itself- the bigger the hair the more style you’d have. The wigs were also in style which were coloured in silver powder. Diamonds and pearls were trending when it came to jewellery to showcase their wealth. 

Fig:Woman's common fashion in Baroque Era

Moving onto the Rococo period, hairstyles got even bigger and more elaborate and the colour trending was blue, along with pink and white. The utterly feminine shoes and slippers were soft and made of satin. Use of heels was also initiated. Women wore tight corsets and plunged necklines. New styles emerged, which more skin show and the garments were now lighter in weight but remained decorative.