GREECE - FASHION AND CLOTHING

GREECE : COSTUMES AND FASHION

The typical clothing that ancient men and women wore consisted of two pieces of clothing draped around the body - a cloak ( himation or chlamys) and an undergarment (chiton or peplos), Clothes were customarily made at home of different lengths and breadths and these pieces were often interchangeable too! They were made out of wool or rectangular linen fabric with extra accessories like clasps, pins or a belt. Unfortunately, none of the clothes have survived from this period although  they served many purposes, for example, bedding. Mostly, the common clothing included incorporating decorative borders on plain white cloth. Evidence can be traced for elaborate designs and bright colours- but they were definitely less common. 

Fig: An overall look of both men and women.

Fig: They usually wore very loose fitted clothes. 

Ancient Greece consisted primarily of Chiton, Peplos, Himation and Chlamys. They can be explained as follows:

Fig: Parts of the clothing.

CHITON

A simple tunic garment worn by both genders and all ages in lighter linen is called chiton. Secured along the shoulders, It included wide rectangular tubes. They fell to the ankles of the person wearing it , typically. However, shorter lengths were worn by people interested in harsh activities (athletics, wars etc). A cloak or a himation could be worn over a chiton. 

PEPLOS

A square piece of cloth thats the predecessor (worn over) the chiton is called the peplos. It is folded and pinned at both shoulders. Sometimes it was worn alone i.e as an alternative for a chiton.

HIMATION

A basic garment worn over a chiton is called himation. It is made up of a very heavy rectangular material which passes under the left arm and settles at the right shoulder. A cloak could also be placed in a similar way. In cold weather, more volumes of himation could be worn. Also, it is said that this himation was pulled up over the head if incase the wearer faced emotion or shame.

CHLAMYS

Men wore seamless rectangular woollen material for hunting and military purposes called chlamys. This was again worn as a clock secured at the right shoulder which fancy buttons or broaches. This clothing is famous particularly from the 5th to the 3rd century BC as it came to be known as a Greek military attire. 

Fig: Ancient Greek Clothing

FABRIC

Ancient Greek clothing was made up of wool mostly, silk and linen. This production of fabric was rather a long and tedious process and the ready made clothing was highly expensive. 

FOOTWEAR

They roamed around barefoot at home. Otherwise, they wore sandals, slippers, soft shoes and boots.

JEWELLERY

Small ornaments in gold were sewn into the clothing and would sparkle as one moved. Elaborate hairstyles and makeup were prominent. 

EGYPT - CLOTHING AND FASHION

EGYPTIAN CLOTHING AND FASHION

“Egyptian fashion was created to keep cool while in the hot desert.” 

Egyptian clothing is famous for its variety of colours. The fashion of these ancient Egyptians focused not only on beauty (adorned with precious jewels and gems) but also on comfort. The most common fabric was linen in those times as it helped people to get comfortable in the scorching heat. This linen was made from the flax plant by the method in which fibers were spun from the stem of the plant. Important techniques that were used in Egyptian societies included spinning, weaving and sewing. For the rich, taboos like animal fibers were used on occasions in the form of overcoats. However, they were forbidden in sanctuaries and temples. 

Fig: Ancient Egyptian Clothing

MEN

Men’s clothing was as simple as a wrap around skirt belted at the waist or pleated or gathered up in the front. They were known as the Shendyt. From the time period of 1420 BC to 1600 BC skirts became long from short and then transformed into a light tunic i,e a blouse with sleeves and a pleated petticoat. 

PHARAOHS

This is a common term used for the kings of Ancient Egypt. Well documented Royal clothing was made of leopard skin over the shoulder and they often added a lions tail that would usually hang from the belt. 

WOMEN

Fig: Women wore straight cut dress. They decorated their clothes.

Their clothing was more conservation than men’s. They wore simple sheath dresses known as the kalasiris - i.e. a dress held up by one or two straps and worn down till the ankle. Social class of the wearer was determined by the length of the dress. Other accessories included beading, feathers, shawls, robes or capes along with decorative shoes.

CHILDREN

No clothing was worn until the child was 6 years old. As soon as they turned six, they were allowed to wear clothes for the very reason of protecting themselves from the dry heat. However, apart from clothing, they wore anklets, bracelets, hair accessories on their popular hairstyle of side locks on the right side of their heads. When they grew up, they’d follow the style of their ancestors. 

OTHER ACCESSORIES

Heavy and voluminous jewellery was popular, no matter what the social class. One creation specific to this time is the ‘gorgerine’ i.e. an assembly of metal discs worn on the chest. 

Hair wigs were worn by both- the men and women who were wealthy. They were quite inexpensive. 

Nails and hands were painted with henna. The perfumes were most sought after and the costliest.           

Fig: Basic garments with minor variations accounted for fashion - Fundamentally, social status and wealth did not change.

Footwear too, was the same for both the genders. They consisted of sandals made of leather work. Since they usually roamed barefoot, these sandals were an addition on special occasions or when they knew their feet might get hurt.  

ROME - CLOTHING AND FASHION

ROME CLOTHING AND FASHION 

The official dress code in ancient Rome for the day was complex and had to compulsorily reflect one's position accurately in the social order, one's gender, and also, one’s language. "The importance of official dress, even more than other distinctions, signalled the social status and rank of freeborn Romans and the public roles of magistrates and priests.” Quoted. 

Fig: Tunics were dyed in different colours because Romans loved vibrancy.

TYPES OF CLOTHING

Individual clothes were woven on vertical looms which contrasts with the medieval period where clothes were produced on  horizontal looms that later tailors made. The weaver used to sit at the horizontal loom and produce rectangular lengths of cloth which never weren’t  wider than the weaver's two arms.

Fig: Drawing of a Stola.

Besides tunics, women wore “STOLA” which are simple garments. They usually followed the fashions of their Greek contemporaries which comprised of two rectangular pieces of cloth joined at the side by  buttons in a manner which allowed the garment to drape freely over the front .Over it, women often wore the palla - i.e. shawl made of a piece of material that could be worn as a coat.

Roman girls wore nothing more than a tunic which used to hang below the knees or lower and was belted at the waist. It was very simply decorated, mostly in the colour white.

Clothing for men and women were very similar and they usually went barefoot. However, the garments varied in material 

UNDERGARMENTS

The basic garment which both the sexes wore under their one or more additional layers, was called the tunica or tunic. This was a very simple rectangle which was sewn into a tubular shape and pinned around the shoulders, just like a Greek chiton. Women also wore a breast cloth. Garments to cover the loins,were worn, especially by soldiers.

FABRICS USED

Wool, was the most commonly used fibre and was most likely the first material to be spun.

Silk and cotton were imported from China and India respectively. A luxury afforded only to the rich ; Silk was rare and expensive.

The tanned leather was used to fashion heavy coats to keep Roman soldiers warm during their travel.

Leather  was used sometimes for protection against the poor weather,however, its primary use was in footwear and also,belts.

Animal skins were usually worn over the helmet .The Romans hardly used goat skin for their leather and preferred pig or sheepskin. 

Fig: Besides tunics, women wore a simple garment known as a stola and usually followed  the fashions of  their Greek contemporaries. 

ACCESSORIES

Romans wore long hair and full beards. The only kind of jewellery they wore were rings which had a precious stone. 

THE DARK AGES

FASHION THROUGH THE MEDIEVAL AGE 

The ‘dark ages’ as it is called, refers to that time in history where the Age of discovery and the beginning of the Greek Empire was marked by the fall of the Roman Empire. Europe, by some scholars, have been perceived as ‘plunged into darkness’ when the Roman Empire fell. The Middle ages hence, is referred to as “Dark” because of lack of cultural and scientific advancement. 

Fig: Farming, religious discrimination and technology advances led people out of the Dark Ages.

Fig: The European Dark ages are seen as a period of insecurity and fear.

One of the most important parts during the rule in medieval times was its clothing. The styles that people wore kept changing and the main reason behind it was that new fabrics were introduced time and again. Therefore, the King was now able to make a unique empire for himself that stood out due to its various different colour combinations. Citizens too could be differentiated through their style of dressing which made them happier as they could experiment well in different weather conditions. 

Fig: Materials used were woollen cloth,fur , linen
and silver or gold cloth to name a few.

Information about one’s social status was provided by the type of material and the colour of the clothes they wore. The peasants for example, wore cheap and undyed wool in different shades of grey and brown. Wealthy merchants on the other hand dressed elaborately. Towards the end of this period, wealthy class men wore a hose and a jacket, with pleats or skirts or even a tunic. Flowing gowns and headgears were worn by women. Peasant men wore tunics or stockings and women wore sleeveless tunics over gowns and wimples to cover hair. In winters, cloaks made of sheep skin and woollen hats were worn along with leather boots. 

Fig: Queen's court dresses.

Talking about jewellery, it was mostly functional. Richly adorned and embroidery work on the clothing left very little scope for jewellery. The only jewels that naturally formed a part of one’s dress was the belt worn by married women and men and the brooch that fastened the tunics at the neck. These few pieces however monumental and noble. Ring brooches were the most popular items in the 12th ce. Diamonds became popular in the 14th ce. 

Hair styles varied among the women and covering the head was also popularised. They have survived due to the paintings and portraits of royals on historic coins. They were usually long, trend of short hair or medium length was hardly seen - and important components included plaits, updo’s and braids. Coiled buns were also introduced on each side of the head. Important characteristics included flowers, silk bands and leaves. 

RENAISSANCE PERIOD

RENAISSANCE : AT THE EARLIEST

The period in Europe from the 14th to 17th c.e is considered to be a bridge between the middle ages and the modern history. It marks the very beginning of what came to be known as the Early Modern Age. 

History of Europe can be briefly divided into three ages : 

• Classical Age ; ancient Europe
• Middle Ages ; medieval period
• Modern Age

“Renaissance” literally means ‘Rebirth’ in French and appeared first in English in the 1830s. 

The origin of this period dates back in the late 13th c.e Florence whereas some propose the starting point to be 1401. During this period, money and art went hand in hand. Artists were totally dependant on patrons and vice versa. It represented a break away from a conformist society i.e. the one in which people strictly follow practices and rules. Having said that, new innovative ideas began to spread and started gaining importance. Henceforth, dominance by the catholic church started to fade. 

Fig: This painting shows an imaginary scene from Ancient Greece with many famous Greek artists, mathematicians and writers.

Renaissance was a cultural movement whose influence was felt in art, music, science, literature and other aspects related to intellectual inquiry. Talking about the changes brought in by the Renaissance - new trends and styles emerged which were inspired by Europe’s ancient history. 

Talking about art ; it was life-like and had perspective. Painters began to depict human figures with complete accuracy and one great example to prove this new knowledge can be attributed to the pioneer figure- Leonardo da Vinci. 

Fig: The Mona Lisa- world's most famous painting was painted during this time.

Fig: Leonardo da Vinci's Vitruvian man

Great literacy change was experienced too. Shifting and drifting away from religious subjects, writers and poets now looked back to the Ancient texts and poems of Greece and Rome. Information was suddenly made more accessible with the invention of printing press in the 1440s to the general public- which had a great impact in the field of education. 

Philosophy and its related trends also changed. Humanism- the new of thinking in which people thought about human beings and the universe was also altered. It did not promote humans as naturally sinful and it focused many on finding reasons before assumptions. 

Major changes were seen in the fields of Science and engineering too. Astronomy, anatomy and physics were some main areas where new and exciting discoveries were made. They paved way for some of the the world’s most significant inventions such as spectacles,clocks, and telescopes. Galilio Galilei was one such inventor.

Fig: Galileo Galilei and his invention : The telescope 

The society- Renaissance was a hierarchal age i.e. the child’s social position was determined by his parents place in the society. They maybe  nobles, wealthy merchants, shopkeepers, craftsperson, civil servants etc. They provided social services for the less fortunate as well - be it civic charitable institutions, social mobility etc. 

ELIZABETHAN FASHION

ELIZABETHAN FASHION

A ‘highly fashion-conscious’ era as it is called ; of all the aspects, this Elizabethan culture was distinctively famous for its clothing - elaborate, stylish and striking. Both genders were seen wearing all the latest and the most fashionable outfits which weren't just limited to the upper class as the other ordinary people were too, highly influenced by them. Through paintings that hung in the great country houses, both men, along with women are portrayed in rich velvets, heavy brocades and exaggerated jewellery. 

Fig: Men and women's clothing

The Elizabethan women have been portrayed as well-to-do and their standard look included a white makeup base, colourful dyed cheeks, fake beauty spots, thin eyebrows, thick lipsticked lips and powdered hair which would be pinned and perfumed. Their clothing looked somewhat like men with broad shoulders, thin waists and broad hips. Their dresses were made up of two or three garments with the bodice coming down to the waist ; sleeves were separate but fastened to it with a lace. The skirt, known as the kirtle was of different material with a wire inside to give it a balloon shape. Hair was worn in many different styles - however they were always bushed from the forehead to the back. 

Fig:The bodice came down to the waist

It is said that putting on an Elizabethan outfit was quite a task - with so many layers of clothing it was thought that the woman would be warm and most likely, uncomfortable. 

Men were seen as stylish wearing a shirt, fitted jacket , breeches and boots. For any social occasion for that matter,  a ruff at the neck, velvet cloak and  a hat would always work. Wealthy men were seen wearing fabrics like silk, brocade, satin and velvet that were colourful with mostly golden or silver lace. The poor on  the other hand wore leather or canvas. The doublet was the most expensive as well as the most striking part of a mans clothing ; the sleeves were tight at the wrist ; hose covered the body from the waist down. Hats worn over the head were often of different shapes and sizes and were worn indoors. Hair unlike the women were combed forward to form short fringes . In the mid 16th century, trimmed beard and moustache came into style. 

Fig: Parts of men's clothing

This period of Queen Elizabeth is supposedly the era known for its culture, entertainment, fashion and food. She was herself, an epitome of fashion! She wore the richest clothing per say and carried off all varieties with grace and elegance. She was herself a stylish lady and had an excellent taste in clothing. 

BAROQUE AND ROCOCO FASHION

BAROQUE AND ROCOCO PERIOD OF FASHION

The Baroque and the Rococo movement was initiated in the 18th century. This particular movement affected not just fashion but various other aspects as well including art, lifestyle, music and architecture. Rococo and Baroque were formed in Paris, France as a result of the reaction from various artisans over the strict rules and regulations. 

Fig: Woman dressed in a classic Rococo print

Rococo can be called the late Baroque style. But what exactly was Baroque? It was simply a form of art which was included in every possible creative field like clothes, music, and even theatre. When we talk of Baroque in the context of architecture or material styles, it was portrayed as rich. These designs were put up on walls covered with art. Rococo on the other hand was more about natural elements - sticking to lighter colour schemes. 

Beginning with the Baroque period- it was King Louis the 14th who brought changes in fashion. He introduced the idea of having dressmakers and designers as professionals. As a shift from the renaissance period, the dresses became much lighter in terms of weight - however, the decorative elements continued to grow. The gowns further began to have cuts of different kinds and various embellishments and frills. They became less flouncy and the necklines further widened. Although the French were considered to be the most fashion forward ones, it is hard to believe that they were the least orthodox. The dresses used a lot of frills, pearls and other adornments to complete the look. French came to be known for their perfumes as the Parisians got not bathing and carried these perfumes around to kill the strong and smelly body odour that they had been carrying for months. Unfortunately, this trend is followed even today! The queen of that time- Marie Antoinette was considered to be an epitome of style and fashion. She introduced the wearing of the big hair. Hairstyling was an art in itself- the bigger the hair the more style you’d have. The wigs were also in style which were coloured in silver powder. Diamonds and pearls were trending when it came to jewellery to showcase their wealth. 

Fig:Woman's common fashion in Baroque Era

Moving onto the Rococo period, hairstyles got even bigger and more elaborate and the colour trending was blue, along with pink and white. The utterly feminine shoes and slippers were soft and made of satin. Use of heels was also initiated. Women wore tight corsets and plunged necklines. New styles emerged, which more skin show and the garments were now lighter in weight but remained decorative. 

VICTORIAN TIMES FASHION

VICTORIAN TIMES FASHION

Fig: Queen Victoria's rule

Talking about what exactly was the victorian period ; It was when Queen Victoria ruled England from 1837-1901. All this while the men were constantly in focus because of their fashion, but with the queens rule, women slowly surged to the news. Subsequently, the role of a wife had begun to show off her husbands wealth and status to the public. Talking about clothing, many different styles came and went during her rule. It comprised the various    fashion and trends in British culture. However, this period saw many changes in fashion, some of them being in architecture, literature, the decorative and visual arts including clothing.

Fig: Evolution

Clothing was increasingly made in the factories which had new machinery and materials . They were often sold in large, fixed price department stores. Old animal and vegetable dyes were now replaced by New cheap, bright dyes that were developed. 

Fig: Corset

Fig: Women's silhouette's over the years

Fig: Late Victorian Clothing

In the 1840s and 50s women's gowns were famous for having had wide puffed sleeves which were simple and pale. Different types of Petticoats, and corsets were worn under these gowns. 

In the 60s the skirts became much flatter in the front and lifted out more behind the woman. In the70s,tea gowns were introduced for informal occasions like sitting at home and steadily grew in popularity. 

Small hats were worn towards the front of the head and to complement it, women wore their hair in elaborate curls and used hairpieces to add to the volume of their hair.

In the 80s, clothing worn when out for a walk included long jackets and skirts, worn with  a small hat. In the 90s, i.e.  the last decade of the Victorian era, women’s clothing was characterised by high collars, which were held together  by collar stays. By this time, women opted for the tiny wasp waist. 

Enormous is the perfect word to describe the women’s hats. To enhance it, feathers and flower-laden creations were used. 

As Victorian era drew close, the silhouette changed once again . The shape was an inverted triangle, with a hat on the top, a full upper body with puffed sleeves, and a skirt that narrowed down at the ankles.

Fig: Typical men's clothing

During the 1840s, men usually wore tight-fitted, calf length frock coats. Waistcoats and the vests were single or double-breasted. However, for formal occasions, a morning coat with very light trousers was worn during the daytime, and dark tail coats and trousers were worn in the evening. The fabric used for shirts were linen or cotton with low collars. 

Men wore top hats with brims that were wide in sunny weather.

In 1850s, men started wearing shirts with high collars. However, the upper-class continued to wear top hats, and bowler hats were worn by the working class.

60s saw men wearing wider neckties that were often tied in a shape of a bow. Top hats became the very tall "stovepipe" shape, but a variety of other hat shapes were also popular, no doubt.

70s saw the popularity of three-piece suits with patterned fabrics for shirts. 80s saw the formal evening dress as a dark tail coat and trousers with a dark coloured waistcoat, a white bow tie, and a shirt with a winged collar. 

Men's shoes now had narrow toes and higher heels.

90s introduced the blazer and was worn for casual activities like sports and sailing.

It has been observed that throughout much of the Victorian era most men had fairly short hair,  accompanied by various forms of facial hair like moustaches, side-burns, and full beards.

20TH CENTURY FASHION

20TH CENTURY FASHION

This era is particularly famous as a variety of designs, styles and materials of other cultures and times became accessible to designers. Talking about accessibility, first hand communication along with travel was made easy between continents. Secondary sources such as magazines, books and journals lead to developments in printing techniques and photography to name a few. 

Fig: Evolution of dresses over the years

Talking about the early 20th century, (1900s) historical and multi-cultural sources are evident. The popular figure- Silhouette i.e. pigeon berated bosom with a tiny waist and swayback hips became highly famous. Skirts swept the floor and evening gowns with low necks were popular among the women. Wide picture hats ruled this decade. In fabrics- natural fibbers like linen, cotton, wool and silk were preferred. And popular colours included shades of black and brown, white or embroidered polka dots. 

With the progression of the decade, (1910s) hats narrowed down. Horizontal layered appearance- in skirts or tailored jackets was the new “in thing”. A new addition to the fabrics was rayon - artificial silk. One example is Chanel ; which used denim as a leisure fabric even before denim became popular in this period. Small figure prints with solid colours in the day and exotic vibrant hues in the evening became well known. The highlights were the fur, tassels and feathers which were the new “mystique look of fashion”. 

Fig: Fashion from the 2o's

In 1920s and 30s, for the first time, the slim and natural silhouette became the style. Hair was shoulder length- waved. 20s were popular for simplified and elongated lines. fabrics included crepes and chiffon and colours preferred were small checks or a floral pattern. Whereas 30s were popular for their medieval or ultra-Deco touch. Use of linen sometimes along with velvet in geometric and abstract prints was a hit! Fads and innovations included smoking in public, obvious makeup, extreme dieting, tanned skin, first appearance of midriff, use of costume jewellery and platform heels to name a few. 

In 1940s, broad chests and shoulder pads became a must. Hair was shoulder length or longer- curled. Common designs included fitted jackets and skirt suits - mostly in nylon which was the sole material in some sheer day dresses. Casual clothes were sometimes boldly coloured. 1950s silhouettes were a hallmark because of the soft but wide shoulders, corseted waist and full hips. One particular style that literally hid all the rest was the cocoon inspired sacque dress and coat. Modelling as a job, cat eye glasses and hawaiian shirts became some fads. 

Fig: Short hair and slimmed waistlines

1960s to 1990s fashion celebrated scientific progress and modernity. However, when it comes to the shape of womenswear in 60s, it can be traced back to the 20s inspire of all the use of space age imagery and use of new materials. Full skirt dresses from the 70s with matching turbans reflects the gentle ethnic influence. After this punk, the pirate outfit- tunic top, sash, waist coat, trousers, hat and heavy boots from the 80s draws on a variety of historical and cultural sources. The 90s dress ‘Rhythm Pleats” is reminiscent of Fortuny. However, rather than clinging onto the body, the hi0tech polyester and linen mix garment formed an angular and sculptural shape on the body.

Fig: Age of technology ; street fashion 

My Life : My Personal Brand

MY LIFE; MY PERSONAL BRAND

What comes to your mind when you think of the term “personal branding”? well it can be defined by certain questions that one asks self about. when people think of your name, what do you wish they associate it with? are there any general qualities that are linked to your brand or is there a certain subject matter in which you'd like to be perceived. my dear friend,when you start to get these answers, you'll then be able to define your brand. what makes you unique? what makes you relevant? what makes you compel to reach your goals? when you start to identify and communicate the answers to these questions, you'll be able to market the brand called “you”. 

Personal branding will help you understand why you're unique, what makes you valuable and powerful. once you know it, you can use that information to create visibility to those well wishers who will help you reach your goals.

You may not be celebrity but you are a brand. You're one brand thats always in touch with the outside world and thats one major reason why you must future and establish yourself as a brand. just because you're not endorsing noodles and pens like Amitabh Bachchan or promoting beauty products like Sonam Kapoor or Deepika Padukone- doesn't mean you're not being associated with unique values by your friends, clients, relatives etc.

Often we find it easier to comprehend celebrities as brands because they tend to invest a lot to make think so, you know. also, its not just in their outward appearance of perfectly toned bodies, glowing skin and well maintained hair but solely because of the causes that are associated with it. their stand on certain issues, brands that they choose to endorse , their online presence and how they make choices in their career. a good example to put forward is of Kangana Ranaut- why she refused to endorse a fairness product is very much an extension of her personal brand. she has now crafted herself as an identity of a no-nonsense , straight talking and powerhouse actor. This really helps her get roles and other endorsements that are a fit with her personal brand values. 

Its often said, and I completely agree thats ones personal brand then becomes ones calling card that identifies you with certain qualities , associates you with a cause or pegs you in a bracket.

Just a reminder : You're a whole without someone else. You are not a fraction. You're a complete master piece all by yourself and you do not need anyone else to validate your existence. And if you doubt any of this, try and be alone! yes. You read that right. Eat alone, sleep alone, work alone and take yourself on dates. And i promise you, that i the midst of this you will learn more about yourself- your personal brand. You will grow, you will figure out your inspirations, your own dreams, your beliefs and disbeliefs, your OWN stunning clarity.

“And when you do meet the person who makes your cells dance, you will be sure of it, because you'll be sure of yourself”